Article and photograph by Laura Locker
New American (2103 N Killingsworth, in the old Mextiza space), whose catchphrase is “Bring It Home,” raises the bar for take out. The restaurant is a spacious, modern, and comfortable place to dine, but if you have children who balk at the idea of leaving the comforts of home, their take out can be a lifesaver.
On their user-friendly website (newamericanpdx.com) you can order everything: mains, side dishes, desserts, even growlers of beer and a selection of retail items, such as a bag of coffee.
One of the great pleasures of their menu is that many of their dishes are offered in small, medium or large quantities. I ordered a smorgasbord of “small” sizes. The modest prices for the small sizes—ranging from $3.75 for small sides to $6-9 for mains—allowed me to pick and choose in the nostalgic fashion of cheap Chinese take out. My only suggestion for the site might be to allow for advance ordering, specified pick-up times, no matter when the order is placed, would be great for busy parents, and perhaps to provide some indication, upon checkout, of how long one should allow for the food to be prepared. I had time earlier in the day to peruse and put together my selection but could only finish the checkout when I was absolutely ready to jump in the car and pick it up.
The service was warm and friendly, and the food—which was ready within the timeframe I was quoted over the phone (I called to doublecheck before departing)—was impressive. Their menu felt curated, in part, by an expert who knew what would hold and present well back at home. Almost everything I ordered could have been fearlessly served to company.
The skin of the rotisserie chicken ($21/whole, $12/half, $6.50/quarter) was beautifully burnished, and the fat nicely rendered. Its lemon and bay marinade permeated the juicy meat. The chicken, with a large order of the creamy polenta ($12.50) and one of their generous salads, would make a stand-out meal for four, for less than the price of most Chinese take-out. The beef braised in mustard and beer ($6.50 sm, $12 med, $21 lg) was extraordinarily tender, yet with a satisfying crust. Macaroni and cheese from the “Little Bites” menu ($5) hit all the expected comfort notes for my kids, even with the hint of nutmeg lingering in the sauce. The smoked trout pasta ($11), packed with a juxtaposition of lightly smoked fish and crunchy bits of fennel root, was rich and satisfying and the pasta perfectly al dente.
Tonight, skip the same old offerings at the local grocery’s hot bar and, instead, treat your family to the comforting, delicious offerings at New American.
Laura Locker is a native Portlander who has lived and eaten around the world. She has two restaurant-loving children, aged 6 and 10.
